Lebanese Village Lebanese/Middle Eastern Arlington 549 S. 23rd St. Arlington, VA 703-271-9194 Open daily for lunch and dinner. You could fill up on what this sliver of a dining room calls the Combination Platter-a lavish array of tahini-rich  hummus, intense baba ghanoush, stuffed grape leaves, falafel, tabbouleh, and  spicy favas-and call it a meal, but then you'd miss hearty plates like fatteh  blahmeh-lamb heaped on toasted pita shards with garlic-shot yogurt, drizzles of butter, and crunchy pine nuts. Or tender chicken kebabs. Or kefta, sweet-spicy  ground beef and lamb studded with parsley and onions, the Middle East's answer to a Big Mac. Either way, wash it down with Lebanese Almaza beer and marvel at the bargain prices and the good cheer of the owner. Whether you combo or not,  one starter you won't want to miss is labneh, dense strained yogurt splashed with olive oil and somehow conjured into a creamy spread. If the menu and the  food seem familiar, maybe you've been to the Village's sister restaurant, Pita  House, in Alexandria. Lebanese Village, 549 S. 23rd St., Crystal City; 703-271-9194. Open daily for  lunch and dinner. — Cynthia Hacinli May 2001